For the last post, we took a stroll around the place where England’s American empire came to an end. Just a short distance away, at the other end of the Colonial Parkway, is the place where it started.
If you haven’t been to Jamestown since the 400th anniversary, you’ve missed out on a lot. Last week was my first visit in a long time, and they’ve added so much stuff that it almost seemed like a different site.
The visitor center exhibit is packed with archaeological materials…
…the fruit of many years’ worth of excavations, which are still ongoing. (Check out this nifty interactive map for info on what they’ve found so far.)
In addition to the visitor center displays, there’s a new museum in the park called the “Archaearium,” which sits atop the site of the statehouse.
You can see the statehouse foundations through glass windows in the Archaearium floor.
Excavators found these items inside one of the fort’s wells, and the exhibit designers mounted them in a way that illustrates their positions in situ. It’s pretty neat.
The most powerful exhibit in the Archaearium is a gallery with the remains of some of Jamestown’s dead, including “Jane,” a girl of about fourteen whose bones bear the traces of cannibalism. Photography is forbidden in that part of the museum, but you can get some more info on Jane here.
The Tercentenary Monument is still there…
…along with the site’s only remaining seventeenth-century structure, a church tower.
The current church alongside the tower is a 1907 reconstruction, but seventeenth-century foundations are visible inside.
There’s also a partial reconstruction of one of the earlier churches, a “mud and stud” building erected within the original fort walls in 1608. John Rolfe married Pocahontas on this site in 1614.
John Smith gazes out across the James River…
…while Pocahontas stands near the reconstructed fort with arms outstretched in what looks like a gesture of welcome. Hardly the most accurate depiction of what Powhatan’s daughter would have looked like when Jamestown’s settlers first encountered her, but still a nice piece of commemorative sculpture.
Historians long thought that the site of the original, triangular fortification built by the first settlers was lost to the river. As it turned out, that wasn’t the case. The original fort site was right there near the church tower the whole time, although erosion carried away any traces of one of the corner bastions. Cannons mark the site of the other two. Only one of the bastions pointed inland; the others faced south toward the river, since the first settlers were more worried about Spanish ships than marauding Indians.
What should have concerned them more than either were disease and starvation. Crosses mark some of the early burials in and around the fort, bearing testimony to the fact that, in its first years, Jamestown—whatever else it eventually meant for the history of America—was above all else a deathtrap.
The colony eventually outgrew the triangular fort and expanded eastward along two streets beside the river. Walking trails take you past the reconstructed foundations of some of these later buildings.
Near the park entrance are the remains of the glasshouse, one of many failed attempts to make the colony profitable before tobacco took off.
In a reconstructed glasshouse nearby, interpreters demonstrate seventeenth-century glass-blowing techniques.
Jamestown has the highest concentration of critters per acre of any historic site I’ve visited. Geese enjoy hanging out by the river…
…and turtles are pretty common, too. I met this fellow taking a stroll beside the fort site.
I also ran across herons, lizards, a muskrat, a deer, and bugs…lots and lots and lots of bugs, especially on Island Drive, where so many flying insects pelted the car windows that it sounded like driving through a hailstorm.
It’s a little ironic that Jamestown is teeming with life today, given that so many of its settlers went to an early grave.